Where Ice Age animals still roam: Musk Ox Safari in Dovrefjell
Let me take you on a safari that should definitely make it onto your itinerary if you ever find yourself in the Dovrefjell mountains—or even just passing through. It's a full-day adventure, not only to see incredible wildlife but also to explore one of Norway’s stunning national parks.
The landscape feels so untouched that you almost get the impression you've stepped back in time. Come with me to meet musk oxen in the only place in Norway where you can see them roaming freely in the wild.
Musk ox safari of Dovrefjell Lodge
The day starts at 9:00 AM at Dovrefjell Lodge, where I get all the important information. From there, we drive about 15 minutes to Hjerkinn, where we meet our guide.
How to prepare yourself?
You should remember, taht the weather here changes every half hour. Even though yesterday’s forecast promised sunshine, today starts off cloudy, windy, and occasionally rainy. But that’s guaranteed to change at least ten more times before the day is over, so I’m not worried—you get used to it.
The one thing I learned is, that in Norway, there’s no such thing as bad weather, only bad clothing. And I live by that rule, so I’m dressed in layers and fully prepared, complete with sunglasses, a hot coffee, snacks, and most importantly, binoculars.
Chasing Giants: The Musk Ox safari
The hike can be anywhere from 8 to 20 kilometers long. And that depends entirely on the musk oxen. These shaggy giants can walk up to 30 kilometers in a single night if they feel like it. Across the 67 square kilometers of the Hjerkinn/Kongsvoll/Drivdalen area, that turns tracking musk oxen into something close to a full-time job. So while you can absolutely explore the park on your own, hiring a guide who knows exactly where the herd is hanging out is a very good idea.
Musk oxen lived in this area during the Ice Age, as confirmed by fossil remains found here. After disappearing from the region, they were reintroduced after World War II. Today, around 200 musk oxen roam freely in the park. We managed to find six of them, including this year’s calf. Yay!
Time Travel Vibes
By the way, my feeling that Dovrefjell had somehow transported me back in time wasn’t completely wrong.
Besides musk oxen, archaeologists have also found traces of the first people who arrived here shortly after the Ice Age. Nearly 9,000 years ago, they hunted reindeer, built campfires, and walked through the same mountains we’re hiking today. The only difference is that they had a slightly more practical reason for being outdoors than carrying cameras and binoculars.
Meet Our Guide Kinge
Our guide’s name is Kinge, and you can book him through Dovrefjell Lodge. He’s a former wildlife photographer who has been guiding in this area for over 20 years. He knows exactly where the musk oxen go, how they behave, how to act around them, and how to observe them without making them feel threatened—all while helping you get the best possible photo.
Don’t Mess With a Musk Ox THOUGH
Musk oxen are herbivores and generally harmless, so there’s no reason to be afraid of them... unless they feel threatened. In that case, these animals, weighing up to 450 kilograms, can run at speeds of up to 60 km/h (37 mph). And that is definitely no joke. Fortunately, an experienced guide knows exactly how to avoid situations like that.
Do not worry, this whole trip is safe as it can be. As he said, in 20 years of guiding he’s never lost anyone. The same number of people always came back… (though there’s no official proof they were exactly the same people each time, but that’s just a minor technical detail I believe).
Check Kinge out on his instagram! He is got so many beautiful pics of Musk Ox.
Photographers (and the Rest of Us)
And yes, these safaris are especially popular with photographers. But that doesn’t mean the experience isn’t enjoyable for ordinary travelers like me.
Quite the opposite.
While the photographers were busy working on their perfect shots, the rest of us had time for snacks, coffee, and simply soaking in the untouched wilderness while watching the playful calf of an animal that has been around since the Ice Age. Meanwhile, Kinge kept us entertained with story after story. And trust me, he has plenty of them.
Perfect Safari Day
Our safari turned out to be one of the shorter ones. We walked around 10 kilometers in total and spotted the musk oxen within the first hour (thank you, Kinge!). By 4:00 PM, we were back at the lodge, just in time to rest and wait for the dinner at the restaurant.
But I already know I’ll be returning to this park at the first opportunity for a longer trek. Because wow. Those views, the complete absence of people, and that feeling of total peace and quiet... it’s pure therapy for the soul.
The best part? Hiking in this area isn’t particularly demanding. It’s suitable for pretty much all ages and fitness levels, which I absolutely love. Because getting to enjoy scenery like this without suffering for it? Yes, please. Give me more.
